Cheese Course - Are Local Buronniers a Dying Breed?

by Max Shrem, Posted Dec 30th 2008 @ 9:00AM

My first taste of the cheese Laguiole was unforgettable. I was told that part of the reason it tastes so unique is that it's still being aged in burons, small huts, in the mountains of the Aubrac region in France. Unfortunately, EU rules stipulate that cheese be made and aged in temperature regulated facilities; the burons are not approved. I am fascinated by the burons and the buronniers that inhabite them.

At the end of the seventeenth century, these fragile wooden cabins made with clods of earth started to be made with granite and basalt stone. The buron was used from May to October, during the "estive" period when the cattle and sheep are brought to higher mountain pastures to graze. Set near a spring, the buron was built on rising ground for protection against strong winds and storms.

The buron was divided into two rooms: one for the cowherd and the other for his assistant, the boutillier. It was in the latter that cheese was made. The room was vaulted and dark and had a fireplace and a small window, the fenestrou. It's incredibly rare to find cheeses made in burons. Last winter I tried an exquisite hand-made Gruyère that was produced in a small buron in the Alps. I'm curious to find out more information about these existing buronniers and how they have managed to preserve their traditions.

Filed Under: Cheese Course, Food Politics, Ingredients
Tags: cheese, cheese course, CheeseCourse, europe

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Reader comments (Page 1 of 1)

12-30-2008 @1:15PM Thanh T. said... Wow, I have not seen a black and white photograph of the French country side in a long time.

The background scenery in the photograph looks serene doesn’t it? Thanks for posting it.

Yes, I agree. The southwest part of France-[Pyrenees and Basque] regions produces some of the best cheeses from around the region and perhaps, the best in the world today.

Truffles are also a favorite local ingredient within this region.

Traditionally many farmers were known to prepare and make their cheeses by wrapping them with the freshest ingredients like pepper, garlic, walnuts, honey and etc. from around the region which gives a certain quality, uniqueness, and develops a distinct characteristic of a specific cheese(s).

Some travelers suggests,the Gascony region has a great historical cultural preservation-like old fashion festivals, food-cuisines, art, music, and architecture etc.

A few people who admire cheeses from this region also drink wines to compliment their favorite cheese(s).

Some like reds wines; while others white wines, some enjoy brandy, and some like my grandfather enjoyed a classic vintage cognac. : )

Good luck and warm regards on your research study of existing buronniers, Max. Take Care.

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