As she did in the companion volume on candy, Lou Seibert Pappas tackles Christmas sweets with The Christmas Cookie Book. If the rattling of cookie sheets and the shaking of sanding sugar stir the soul (not to mention the batter) of your inner sugar-plum fairy, then you will appreciate this book. As with its companion, the recipe is to lead off with techniques and some delightful Christmas cookie history, along with discussing the fine arts of decorating cookies, packing them for shipping and (my favorite) arranging them on a platter.

Pappas arranges the recipes into four sections: traditional cookies, family favorites, gift cookies and party cookies. Though each section contains standbys, the highlight is Pappas' gift for presenting ideas and recipes not everyone will have heard of. Most of us know that gingerbread (page 28) is traditional at the holidays, but did you know about the traditions of springerle (page 22), peppernuts (page 31), or Viennese bells (page 36)? Sugar cookies (page 40) and spritz (page 42, if you can lay your hands on your cookie press) and are de rigeur for holiday baking, but why not incorporate lemon wafers (page 45) or pepparkakor (page 44)? And whether you celebrate Hanukkah, Christmas, Kwanzaa, the Solstice or just calories, don't forget to put together a tray of coconut-orange macaroons (page 89).

Best of all, there are several new or new-to-you recipes to add not to just your holiday baking repertoire but throughout the year. Apricot-walnut squares (page 72) would be as welcome at a summertime picnic as at your holiday open house. Plan to bring choclate-pecan caramel bars (page 66) to the first party after the new year when everyone has confirmed that they've fallen off of the diet wagon (if anyone is still on it, there are "fitness bars" on the previous page). Any kids' event will benefit from a tray of brown bears (page 46), as will any for adults when you arrive bearing what my grandmother called butterballs (pecan snowdrops, page 59).

As you can see by a quick visit to any lifestyle channel, cookies rule at this time of year. I would argue that such a delightful field can't really be crowded, unless you factor in the expansion of the waistlines of all of us who are in it. The Christmas Cookie Book is pleasant and useful -- and, bundled with The Christmas Candy Book, would make a great gift for a baker.