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Cheese Course: Robiola di Roccaverano


Robiola di Roccaverano
If you love Italian cheeses as much as I do, you probably know that the term "robiola" is vague and can refer to a variety of different style cheeses from all over Italy. For example, in Campania, you can try an ash-coated buffalo milk cheese called Robiola in Cenere. Despite this diversity, Robiola di Roccaverano comes closest to the original conception of this cheese that was first produced by Ligurian Celts in the eleventh century. Robiola di Roccaverano has a luscious cakey creamy texture and a lightly acidic taste that is balanced by a rich grassy taste of goat's milk.

Robiola di Roccaverano is produced in the area around the village of Roccaverano in the Piedmont region of Italy. It has a DOP label which functions similarly to the French AOC; to protect the traditional way of production. Unfortunately, the DOP rules are shockingly lax. Today, a Robiola di Roccaverano can be produced with 85 percent cow's milk. This is because goat's milk, the original milk used in this cheese, is more expensive. Goat's do not yield as much milk as cows. Fortunately, there are numerous cheese vendors selling 100 percent goat's milk robiolas and ultimately helping to preserve the traditional ways of cheese production that have existed for hundreds of years.

Last fall, I visited the charming village of Roccaverano and had the culinary pleasure of eating ravioli with 100 percent raw goat's milk Robiola di Roccaverano. Cheese producers were selling robiolas on the side of the road, directly off their farms. We mostly ate Robiola di Roccaverano with savory foods, such as salame. However, you can also try it with a grape mostarda, a typical piedmontese condiment. Recommendations on where to purchase this cheese can be found after the jump.

Where can one purchase Robiola di Roccaverano?

I highly suggest going to Formaggio Kitchen where they sell the most authentic robiolas that you can find in the United States. They cost approximately $21 per piece and weigh about one pound. You can find Robiola Bosina at most cheese shops. While I can appreciate its consistent milky flavor, it's not nearly as artisanal as Robiola di Roccaverano.

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