Chocolate for Dinner (and Appetizer and Dessert)

by Alanna Kaufman, Posted Nov 17th 2008 @ 10:00AM

On Friday night, I headed downtown to the Hotel Sofitel for Gaby Restaurant's second annual Nuit du Chocolat, a four-course chocolate dinner. I'll say that again: a four-course CHOCOLATE dinner.

Depending on your tastes, the idea of a chocolate dinner might have you drooling over your keyboard. Or for those lacking a sweet tooth, it might have you fighting back up even less pleasant bodily fluids. I'll admit that my pre-dinner feelings were somewhere in between. When I first signed up to go, I was extremely excited. But as the night approached, I began to have reservations (Ugh, do I really have to get on the subway in the rain? Isn't this meal going to make me sick?). Yet I pulled myself and my umbrella together, and made a trek that turned out to be well worth it.

The menu, composed by Gaby executive chef Vincent Menager and L'Atelier du Chocolat chocolatier Eric Girerd featured both savory and sweet chocolate-filled dishes. Not only was I treated to some amazing food (I'll give full deets after the jump), but also some sweet tips for incorporating chocolate into my own cooking.

First, let me share the details of this extraordinary menu, just to be gratuitous. I'll admit that while all of the dishes were tasty, they definitely improved in quality as the meal progressed:

First Course: Maine sea scallops with Yuzu and Grand Caraque liquor, leeks fondue and shaved fennel scented with orange olive oil.

Second Course: Poached Atlantic turbot filet with white chocolate sauce, wild chanterelles mushrooms and brussel sprouts petals OR Long Island duck with Venezuelan chocolate civet sauce, caramelized cipollini onions, wild porcini, poached pear and roasted fig.

Third Course: French Mini Macaroons

Fourth Course: Taste of Eric Girerd Chocolates (including a honey milk chocolate mousse, a banana chocolate mousse, and orange marmalade mousse, basil truffles, thyme truffles, passion fruit truffles...)

It was a little nuts. I had the turbot fillet -- the sauce was subtle and delicious, with a chocolate flavor that was distinct and balanced by a hint of lemon. My dinner date opted for the duck, and he was swooning over the chocolate flavor combined with the fruit.

The fourth course was nothing less than a beautiful chocolate circus. I actually finished my honey chocolate mousse, even though I swore I was too full by the time the course arrived to do anything more than taste each component. It was so simultaneously creamy and fluffy, with a really strong kick of honey. I also loved the thyme truffles, which, in addition to looking stunning, had a perfect consistency.

According to Mr. Menager, who says he plans to continue the Nuit du Chocolat tradition every year, the trick to incorporating chocolate into savory dishes is balancing the sweetness with both acidity and salt. Without all three he says, the flavor is overpowering. Mr. Girerd added that the trick is to use only 70% + chocolate ingredients.

So while I had to walk 40 blocks home to alleviate my feeling of stuffedness, this meal was definitely one of the most interesting I've ever experienced. I'm still recovering from the chocolate shock, but I have a feeling I'll be ready for more next time around.