Raising the Bar: Yo ho ho and a bottle of rum

If there is a more evocative spirit available behind the bar than that of rum, I'm not aware of it. Pour me a glass of rum and within the vapors rises a raucous and even romantic history of joy, tragedy and debauchery: tippling houses in Barbados in the early 1600's, where British settlers supped the earliest permutation of rum, which they referred to as "kill-devil"; jug wielding pirates careening through the streets of Port Royal in Jamaica, wildly spending their pieces of eight plundered from the Spanish and British empires; independence-minded American revolutionaries huddled in taverns drinking rum Flips and plotting their resistance against the heavy taxes imposed upon them by the British; Americans fleeing Prohibition downing Daiquiris and Swizzles in the jammed bars of Havana; opulent tiki palaces serving Mai Tais, flaming Scorpion bowls, Hurricanes and Fog Cutters to lei-festooned business-men and June Cleaveresque housewives. I think of Piña Coladas at the pool, mojitos in a sweaty nightclub, an authentic Daiquiri while laying on a Caribbean beach with the tropical sun dipping into the sea at the horizon line.

Rum is making a comeback, as it has throughout it's history. Whether it's taxation by the British, temperance loonies railing against "demon rum", the long national nightmare of prohibition or weird shifts in tastes toward vodka and synthetic flavoring, rum has always bounced back, and today traditional mixers are left behind. More and more behind the bar, connoisseurs are treating the premium rums with the same regard usually given to high-grade scotchs, bourbons, cognacs and tequilas.

After the jump, in alphabetical order, are a few of those premium rums we're sipping neat these days. It is a wonderful, intoxicating world of flavors I hope you can enjoy as much as I do:



Angostura. The Trinidad icon that makes the famous bitters produces some excellent sipping rums. I like the 1919, though the 1824 is also wonderful.

Appleton. This Jamaican estate has a spectacular line of rums. The V/X is great for mixing (especially Mai Tais), while their aged rums (the 21 year especially, if you can afford it) are meant to enjoy alone.

Rhum Barbancourt. This Haitian gem is made from fresh sugarcane juice. In Martinique, this is called rhum agricole. When young, it resembles caçhaca. Aged, it has an austere burnt flavor unlike anything else. Go with the 15 year.

Ron Del Barrilito. This one comes from Puerto Rico, known mostly for their white rums. The 3 Star has a great carmelly smokiness to it.

Rhum Clement. A true agricole from Martinique, the VSOP is a smooth example of this style. As with most agricoles, this one has a good burn and I prefer to drop a cube or two in. The XO I sampled at the Tales of the Cocktail in New Orleans absolutely struck me the way Cognac does.

Diplomatico Reserva Exclusiva. I ran into this one in Florida and immediately wished I could have it in my home state. It's produced in Venezuela and has a thick molasses flavor.

El Dorado. I'm a huge fan of Demerara rums, and this one from Guyana doesn't disappoint. A nice and thick caramel and molasses rum without too much sweetness.

Flor de Caña. A friend of mine introduced me to this after returning from Nicaragua, and glad he did. I can't afford the pleasure of the 21 year old, but the 18 year has a wonderful restraint.

Ron Matusalem. I like the entire line, but the Gran Reserva is absolutely delicious. I think I knocked my bottle back within hours.

Mount Gay. The oldest continuously operating rum distillery in the world (over 300 years!!), Mount Gay has long been a favorite of mine for use in cocktails. The Extra Old, however, should most definitely be enjoyed alone or with ice if you prefer. This one is priced right and easy to find, so making this your first step on the rum voyage is a great idea.

Pampero Anniversario. Another Venezuelan rum with dense flavors but classy enough to also be considered a perfect first step on the road to sipping rums.

Pyrat. An Anguillan rum distributed by the Patron juggernaut, this rum is unlike most others. The XO has this whole orange and butterscotch combo going on.

Ron Zacapa. The 23 year continuously collects awards and it's easy to see why. In terms of fullness and balance, the Zacapa is easily one of the best rums in the world. In fact, if you can find it, this rum will be the rum that changes the way you consider this often misunderstood spirit.

Rhum Saint James. Another agricole from Martinique, the Saint James Hors d' Age is a challenging sipper. Squeeze a lime and put it on ice and it becomes an altogether different thing. Those who like funky spices and don't mind the alcohol burn, like I do, will like this rum.

Zaya Gran Reserva. Only the Zapaca, in my mind comes close to equaling what I consider to be the best sipping rum in the world. I haven't been able to find it, and the rumor mill continues to spin that the makers of this rum are tinkering with the recipe in order to mass-produce it more effectively. I dunno, I just know that if you can find the 12 year, it will blow your mind.