Street cart cuisine: Details magazine determines the finest food on four wheels

by Bruce Watson, Posted Aug 15th 2008 @ 12:00PM

Last fall, in the beginning of my first year in New York, I discovered the Vendy awards. Sponsored by the Urban Justice Center, the awards honor the city's best street vendors. I was particularly interested because of Mohammed Rahman, proprietor of the Kwik Meal cart on 45th Street and Sixth Avenue.

On some days, when I had a little extra cash, I'd grab my lunch at Mohammed's stand. While his menu was, ostensibly, the same as most other halal vendors, Mohammed had previously worked at the Russian Tea Room, and his classical background showed through. His genius lay in the little details, like the green papaya marinade that he used for his lamb, the basmati rice that he served it on, and the intricate spicing that made it truly unique. Although the 2007 Vendy ultimately went to Thiru "Dosa Man" Kumar, Mohammed still reigns high in my personal vendor pantheon. After all, he introduced me to the world of gourmet street food.

In New York, gourmet street food is everywhere, if you are brave enough to try it. For example, in my modest Puerto Rican/Dominican neighborhood, one can easily find flaky empanadas, greasy pastelillos, and light bacalaitos for sale on the street. On the corner of Valentine Avenue and Fordham Road, the Sabor Mexico truck sells fresh, amazing tacos in flavors ranging from the common beef to the bizarre tongue. For dessert, there are hundreds of helado vendors pushing the soft, flavorful Dominican ice. When my daughter was enrolled in a day care in Washington Heights, I tried ceviche, cow-foot soup, and tamales, all of which were available on the street (the cow-foot soup, which has a much more lyrical name in Spanish, tasted somewhat gluey).

Further down Manhattan, the choices explode, and the street dining options are only limited by one's neighborhood and bravery. I've had street crepes, Belgian waffles, and barbecue. I've eaten Korean Bulgoki at two different locations (the one on 49th Street and Sixth Avenue is, far and away, the best). I've even caught site of the elusive Treat Truck, which dispenses gourmet desserts throughout the five boroughs. Nowadays, when I come across it, I tend to stock up like a sugar junkie preparing for an Arctic voyage.

While the Vendy awards clued me in to some of the fanaticism surrounding street cuisine, I was blown away by Details magazine's recent piece on America's top street carts. As a New York street food booster, I am honor-bound to complain that the article didn't do justice to the city that never sleeps. That having been said, it's a pretty fantastic article, and the attached interactive map could almost serve as a pit-stop planner for anyone planning a trans-American trip. Admittedly, it is far from comprehensive, but, hopefully, this is only the first step. It isn't hard to imagine an audience thirsting for a complete guide to the best vending spots in the country. Paging Jane and Michael Stern!

Filed Under: Business, Food Quest, Guilty Pleasures, Food Politics, Chefs & Restaurants, Fast Food, Restaurants
Tags: america, Details, details magazine, DetailsMagazine, Dosa Man, DosaMan, Food Quest, guilty pleasures, jane and michael stern, JaneAndMichaelStern, Mohammed Rahman, MohammedRahman, Thiru Kumar, ThiruKumar, Treat Truck, TreatTruck, Urban Justice Center, UrbanJusticeCenter, Vendy, Vendy awards, VendyAwards

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Reader comments (Page 1 of 1)

8-18-2008 @2:03PM Brian Jones said... This is my "TWICE A MONTH" treat.

Once a payday. Not that he is expensive, but DAMN buying lunch takes a bite out of the old wallet!
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