Unlike Manhattan, which is revered for its cuisine, or Queens, which is famed for its ethnic variety, the Bronx is known for its outstanding little Italy, its collection of Puerto Rican cuchifrito joints, and little else. However, in my constant search for the ultimate neighborhood restaurant, I sometimes find wonderful little gems. A few months ago, I wandered into the provocatively-named "Pisac: Peruvian Food and Pizza." Having tried a few Peruvian dishes in college, I was eager to try some more, and Pisac seemed like the kind of hole-in-the-wall joint that ends up becoming a favorite.

Over the last few months, my wife and I have made Pisac a regular hangout. In the process, we've discovered the wonders of chicha morada, a Peruvian purple-corn drink that is simultaneously sweet, spicy, and fruity. In addition to this, it contains a dizzying array of juices that makes it into something of a Peruvian cure-all. In fact, the patrons of Pisac constantly claim that a combination of chicha, ceviche, and Peruvian lime/onion sauce can cure everything from an underactive libido to leprosy.


While chicha may not have miraculous healing properties, it does have a complex, delicious taste that makes a fantastic counterpoint to the spicy, rich flavors of Peruvian cuisine. While there are a few versions of bottled chicha, as Joe DiStefano notes, they are definitely hit and miss. With that in mind, I was relieved to discover that The Splendid Table had a handy recipe. When trying this out, you may want to reduce the quantities!

Chicha Morada

Recipe courtesy of Andina Restaurant in Portland, Oregon

Makes 24 quarts

8 15-ounce bags of purple corn (available from Amazonas)
8 green apples
2 pineapples, peeled and cored
2 quince
10 cinnamon sticks
20 whole cloves
15 cups sugar, or to taste
1 quart freshly squeezed key lime juice, or to taste

1. Wash, peel, and cut fruit into pieces. Reserve the skins

2. Cut the corn kernels from the cob.

3. Combine the fruit, fruit skins, corn kernels, and spices in a large pot with enough water to cover. Cook for approximately one hour, or until the water takes on a deep purple color and is infused with flavors.

4. Strain and let the liquid cool. Add sugar and lime juice to taste