
Last weekend, I used dried pinto beans for the first time. And actually, other than a brief flirtation with cannellini beans during college and the occasional lentil soup or salad, my experience with dried beans is nil. When I was growing up, we were more of a canned bean family and so the idea of cooking with dried beans just never really crossed my mind.
However, over the last few months (or so) I've been seeing lots of people write about using dried beans. The Pioneer Woman did it (and paired them with cornbread). The Gluten-Free Girl described beans in delicious detail. And Luisa, the Wednesday Chef, did amazing things with giant white lima beans.
Bolstered by their seemingly delicious successes, I decided to try it for myself. I actually had a jar of pinto beans on the highest shelf in my kitchen, so that seemed like a good enough place to start. I took my inspiration from Ree's recipe, reducing it at bit because I had a scant three cups of beans (and she used four generous cups). I rinsed the beans, picking them over to make sure there weren't any pebbles or foreign bits. Deeming them sufficiently cleaned, I poured them into my 5-quart dutch oven and filled the pot so that the water came about two inches over the beans. I added a chopped onion, a couple of cloves of minced garlic and, after much internal debate, decided to add the suggested bacon. I settled the pot on the large back burner of my stove and let it simmer for a little more than two hours (I did add some salt and pepper around the end of hour one).
I was astounded by how delicious those beans were. They were miles away from the canned ones in terms of taste and texture. That first night I ate them over sauteed swiss chard (with a side of Food Should Taste Good tortilla chips). The next night a friend came over for dinner and so reheated some of the beans and served them over short grain brown rice with homemade salsa fresca and a green salad. We both ate until we were stuffed because it all tasted so good.
So if you're like me, and have little experience cooking with dried beans, try starting out with a pot of long-simmered pinto beans. I think you'll find you become an instant convert!

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7-18-2008 @12:10AM Allison said... PPS: To clarify: most people still suggest you drain beans after soaking. I don't because 1) I'm lazy; 2) I always wash them first; 3) I get organic (pesticide and herbicide free beans; or 4) all of the above, emphasis on number 1. Well, probably the rest as well.
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7-18-2008 @6:46AM porkette said... I never used to soak my beans, mostly out of laziness, but once I did, I realised the benefit. With black beans at least, soaking gives the cooked beans that emulsified, yummy texture while keeping the integrity of each individual bean. Unsoaked, they'll get soft, but the ones on the bottom will break down and either stick to your pot or just become mush.
Also, I have to say I think pork products are your friend here. I tend to cook what I think of as peasant-style omnivore: meat finds its way into lots of things but rarely in big slabs. But cooking your beans with some onions fried in lard, or with some bacon (or both!) really brings out the bean flavors.
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7-18-2008 @3:22PM Rt said... Wow, I was going to add my 2 cents but everyone beat me to it. Here goes anyway.
In the beginning, it was beans and 'taters - meat was a luxury. The 'frugal gourmet' learned from those basic lessons. Interestingly, rice has replaced 'taters as the cheap vegetable (beans still rule), but that is a different discussion.
I am entertained by the salt/soak/drain/etc viewpoints. "TV chefs' often perpetuate these ideas (I am reminded of adding oil to water when cooking pasta). The regular cook will quickly discover what works for them.
If you under-cook the beans and want to blame the toughness on salt that's ok with me. If you over-cook the beans and want to blame the softness on something so be it.
All that aside, don't forget about the 'second cousins to 'white' (navy, northern, cannellini, whatever - they're all good) beans, such as lima, soya, pinto, etc. These too have their place in the menu. I am not a fan of 'baked beans' but I would not disparage someone who was.
Still, a bowl of 'ham hock and beans' with a grilled cheese sandwich is close to heaven on earth.
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7-18-2008 @4:31PM Jonz said... definately soak! good for texture. and pressure cookers! they are a godsend! seriously.
i generally dump soaking water just in case there is any real issues with the phytic acid found in beans. (http://www.rebuild-from-depression.com/simplechange/simplechange/simplechange/beans.html this is an easier read than anything really scientific). I eat vegan, so i try to make sure i get what iron i can, not that i'm actually worried. It just doesn't seem to hurt anything dumping it. so either way...
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7-18-2008 @5:18PM Sally said... Beans and cornbread for me tomorrow -- soaked overnight and cooked in the crockpot. Although I don't have any now, I do like that Pinto Bean seasoning Ree (The Pioneer Woman) mentioned in her recipe.
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7-19-2008 @6:33AM Angie said... i'll second Jonz, I recommend a pressure cooker (they'll be done in 30 mins, that's how I used to make them in Mexico)...and as already a few mentioned don't add salt until the end. Spices yes, salt no.
Even in the fridge they keep longer, usually my mom makes a whole pressure cooker full and will keep them in a container in the fridge...not that they last that long (they'll go through the equivalent of a gallon in 3 days, used to be faster when I was there). I've also frozen them...
Sigh, now I want a pressure cooker again ;-)
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