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Slashfood Talks: Mark Bittman responds with tinge of sarcasm


I wanted to tell Mark Bittman that I own his entire cookbook collection, and that I read his blog and columns religiously -- but I didn't. I admire Bittman, the Minimalist for the New York Times, so much precisely because he wouldn't give a hoot either way. In fact, he didn't even seem to care whether we finished our interview after two disconnects (I, however, frantically scrambled from corner to corner of my room praying for better reception). He has a straightforwardness that I think translates remarkably into recipes, and he is my go-to source for breads, soups and countless other basics. For a taste of the bluntness (and I would say, brilliance) that put Bittman on the foodie map, read on.

You just returned from Europe. How did your blogging for [your new blog] Bitten affect your trip?

I would say it affected it by me writing fewer emails. I spent more time blogging, but I didn't spend more time at the computer really.

When you write your New York Times column, your audience is already decided for you. Do you envision a different audience when writing your cookbooks or for your blog?


I think the answer is no. I think I pretty much do what I do. It's not as if I don't take my audience into account, but people who like I what I do are going to find me and read me by any means. I'm not saying, "Oh I'm writing a blog so I have to a different style." I wouldn't know how to do that anyway.

I've recognized some of the recipes on the blog from your cookbooks, how do you choose which ones to post?

Actually most of the recipes that have been on the blog are former Minimalist columns, the Recipes of the Day are being drawn from Minimalist Columns that have been in the New York Times Book – Quick and Easy Recipes from the New York Times. The ones that are called "What I had for dinner" are literally that and they may or not be variations of something I've done before. But they haven't been "let me take this recipe out of How to Cook Everything and throw it on the blog." I'm not saying it won't be that, but I don't feel the need yet.
Where do you buy ingredients for your Times videos, and also for your home cooking?

Various places, Fairway. I often drive up to Connecticut -- I stop up there. No place special. Unions Square farmer's market, sort of all over the place

Do you buy the ingredients for your videos?

No, I don't do that shop.

Your ideas about fresh ingredients and good food remind me of the ideas of Chef Gusteau from Ratatouille, who said that everyone can cook. Do you think that's true?


Yes, the introduction to How to Cook Everything says everyone can cook and everyone should, or something like that.

Did the movie steal that line from you?

Yeah.

Are there any dishes that you wouldn't try to minimize because they work better in their original forms?

There are billions, actually. There isn't a recipe that you can't look at and examine and see if you can do more rationally. It doesn't mean you are minimizing it, but you are making it more sensible. But there are certain things like croissants, for example, that there aren't many short cuts.

Do you use your own cookbooks?

No.

So do you invent your recipes as you cook or use other cookbooks?

I don't use cookbooks anymore, hardly at all. Though I look at them, I don't use them.

Any favorites?

Not recent ones.

I bake no-knead bread all the time, and I still don't understand – how can it rise so well and taste so delicious when such a crucial bread-baking step is omitted?

It turns out kneading isn't crucial. It's a separate story and, if you really wanted it, you would have to go to Jim Lahey. He would get technical. The short answer is: If you use less yeast and let it rest longer, you don't need to knead it. By using a lot of water, you get better crust and better texture. By letting it rise longer, you get better wheat and better flavor. That is the uneducated answer.

Actually, it was exactly what I was looking for. Are there any chefs that you think have done an exemplary job of minimalist cooking in restaraunts?

I don't think there is such a thing as minimalist cooking. There is simple cooking, and overdone cooking. I don't really define things that way. It's just a word, just the name of a column, not who I am or what I am or anything like that.

How does your day of no technology affect your cooking?

I tend to cook more on those days. The fact is, if I am at home, I cook. I'm not at home as much as I used to be, and my kids are growing up, so there is no need for me to be home as much. But if I am home, I can cook two to three times a day. I can cook four hours per day, no problem. No technology days are days that I am around the house.

Do you have a favorite meal to cook?

No. no I don't.

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