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Sheer wanton excess is the name of the game for some restaurants, as New York Times food critic Frank Bruni found upon his visit to Le Cirque. In the article, Bruni outlines some of the decadent, near-sinful entrees that lined the table, including fois gras-stuffed ravioli, white truffles, and immense cuts of beef and lamb. Bruni expertly sums up the scene, noting that while the food is enjoyable and the staff, inviting, "[they are] probably...contributing to what is a yeti-sized carbon footprint."
Excessive eating and drinking at restaurants is nothing new. In most cases, it's encouraged. In fact, some might say, what's the point of going out to eat if you don't self-indulge?
We saw this lifestyle secondhand in Bill Buford's "Heat," which depicted the author's experience as a chef alongside chef and Food Network star Mario Batali. Buford unabashedly detailed Batali's oft-hedonistic outings, nights filled with lavish food and drink, and plenty of it.
But then, who are we to judge? If we were privy to such a lifestyle, would we not imbibe in what is probably considered more than our fair share? Perhaps. But Bruni makes a good point in that these lifestyles are being - (and should be) - looked at under an increasingly sharp microscope. In a world that has, in the past few years, become less self-absorbed and more self-aware, is it possible that excessive eating and imbibing will become not only passé, but looked down upon?
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2-13-2008 @11:51AM Alex said... Much much worse to nip into your local fast food joint that has had ingredients freighted across the country (by road, no doubt), is using battery produced eggs and isn't using welfare standard meat or organically farmed produce ...
Wine tends to be freighted by sea (much more environmentally sound) and most top restaurants these days (in the UK at least) have a focus on local produce.
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2-13-2008 @11:51AM Greyhoundgrrl said... Interestingly, Buford also points out that Batali was known for going through the garbage cans of his restaurants and picking out food he thought was still usable.
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2-13-2008 @1:49PM Geena said... "In a world that has, in the past few years, become less self-absorbed and more self-aware, is it possible that excessive eating and imbibing will become not only passé, but looked down upon?"
I'm not sure what rock you've been living under but between global warming and obesity hysteria "excessive eating and imbibing" have been beyond "passé" for quite a while for a lot of us.
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