
I am nearing the end of my masters thesis these days. It is a collection of essays about women in my family and their relationships to food. One of the essays is about my Auntie Tunkel, the woman who raised my grandmother and her siblings. She immigrated from the Ukraine when she was 14 years in order to marry a man who she had never met. It wasn't a happy marriage, but according to family lore, she still managed to enjoy life and make everyone around her feel loved and appreciated.
Auntie Tunkel was an excellent cook and was particularly known for her stuffed cabbage. For the last few weeks, I've been bugging my mom for her stuffed cabbage recipe because I needed to include it in the thesis draft, and on Tuesday she finally came through. As she talked me through it on the phone, I could tell that she was recalling the taste memory of the dish as well. Writing down the recipe, I started to get hungry and by the time we got off the phone I was ready to bolt out of the house and head to the store for the necessary ingredients.
It's a time-intensive dish, but perfect for the weekend when you want to put a little more energy into cooking. When this dish is done, you'll be rewarded with a fragrant kitchen, an excellent meal and tasty leftovers (unless you are cooking for a crowd). The recipe is after the jump.MEAT
1 1/2 pounds very lean ground beef (or substitute ½ pound ground turkey)
1 egg -- beaten
1 garlic clove -- minced
salt -- to taste
black pepper, freshly ground -- to taste
1 cup cooked rice
CABBAGE
1 large cabbage
1 jar or bag sauerkraut
16 ounces tomatoes, canned -- cut up
8 ounces tomato sauce, canned
4 tablespoons brown sugar
1 onion, chopped
salt -- to taste
pepper -- to taste
MEAT: Mix all ingredients for the meat filling together. Refrigerate until needed.
CABBAGE: Cut the bottom off. Place into boiling, salted water to cover; cook 10 minutes or until leaves can be separated easily. If cabbage is quite large, you may have to remove some leaves, and cook cabbage a little longer. You only need to cook cabbage until the leaves become flexible. When you take the cabbage leaves off, cut a vee into the leaf where the stem is to remove the hard part.
When leaves are limp and cool, place about 1/2 cup of meat mixture on bottom of leaf (on the heavy vein); roll up the leaf a bit, turn sides in, then finish rolling so all sides are tucked in. Continue making as many rolls as you wish, or have enough meat. For me, the 1/2 cup meat is usually just what is grabbed with my fingers before making a fist. As the leaves get smaller, you put less meat in. If you have cabbage left over, shred for use in recipe.
When the rolls are finished, sprinkle the sliced onions into the bottom of a large soup pot. Then make a layer of the cabbage rolls, then some sauerkraut, then shredded cabbage,
Pour tomatoes, tomato sauce, brown sugar, sour salt, salt and pepper on top. Shake the pot to equalize the tomatoes and seasonings throughout the pot. Bring to a boil; lower heat and simmer 2-3 hours. Taste often to get the taste you wish because the slow cooking will meld the flavors and sometimes mellow it. Shake the pot when you taste to equalize the liquid.








Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
11-16-2007 @ 1:12PM
noshwithme said...
My mom makes stuffed cabbage every year for Rosh Hashana. It's one of those foods people absolutely cannot wait to eat again. Mmm.
Reply
11-16-2007 @ 1:12PM
Jason Levine said...
My mother would make stuffed cabbage too. (I think I even have her recipe in my recipe file.) She would always make a big batch and then freeze it. The frozen stuffed cabbage could be easily reheated for dinners for quite some time.
Reply
11-16-2007 @ 1:55PM
Jessica said...
mmm... golubtsi.
"Please to the Table" (a Russian cookbook, in English) has the most delicious recipe for golubtsi. I don't remember it off the top of my head, but the stuffed cabbage is simmered in a mixture of beef broth, tomato paste, ketchup, and brown sugar- sooooooooo good. the best i've ever had! ... and my Russian boyfriend's favorite dish of mine!
Reply
11-16-2007 @ 2:46PM
Steve said...
My dad makes this and we call it "Sarmas"
Reply
11-16-2007 @ 3:41PM
ann lemons said...
My dear late mother-in-law was born in 1900 and came to this country from the Ukraine so that her father wouldn't be conscripted into the czar's army, or worse; they were Jewish. I have her recipe for stuffed cabbage (no kraut; rice isn't cooked beforehand), and make it at least once a year. God love women like that who persevered even though life wasn't always what they wanted and didn't make everyone else miserable because of it.
Reply
11-16-2007 @ 5:16PM
Hagar99 said...
Wow, what a blast from the past! My mom's parents were from the Ukraine and we would have stuffed cabbage at home. They used to call it (in Ukranian) "holipcha" or something like that (I'm sure I'm way off). As a youngster I used to run in the other direction, mainly because I hated cooked cabbage but, as I grew older, grew to appreciate it. It's been years and years since I've had it, thanks for reminding me, think I'll hafta make some!
Reply
11-16-2007 @ 5:35PM
ESC said...
my grandmother made this for many a family gathering. she used tomato juice instead of sauce, and put sliced kielbasa in between the layers of cabbage rolls. and she didn't cook the rice first. mmmm...so good. my mout started wandering as soon as I saw that picture up there!
I have made her recipe for a couple church potlucks to rave reviews. thank you for sharing your family version!
Reply
11-16-2007 @ 9:29PM
AJP said...
In Polish this dish is called "Golabki" which means "little pigeons" probably because of the size and shape of the cabbage rolls. My Polish grandfather makes this with pretty much the same recipe. He uses a can of tomato soup for the sauce and bakes the golabki in an enormous, lidded, roasting pan. It makes a massive amount of food!
Reply
11-16-2007 @ 10:23PM
Lisa said...
My German grandmother made these and called them "Krautwickels." I have her recipe here: http://lwbaz.home.mindspring.com/family/recipes/maindishes.html#krautwickels
Reply
11-18-2007 @ 4:25PM
Daria McGeehan said...
My mother makes this using a mix of ground beef, pork and a little veal. Not in equal portions. Mostly beef. She also discovered that it was easier to cook her cabbage in the microwave and peel off the leaves as they softened. It takes less time and if you don't like the smell of cooked cabbage, reduces that as well.
Reply