Several years ago, when my Great-Aunt Flora had to be moved from her Philadelphia apartment to a nursing home closer to family in Brooklyn, I spent a lot of time helping my cousin Betsy clean out her closets and cabinets, in order to get the apartment ready for sale. In the process, I ended up taking a whole lot of stuff home with me, including a Cuisinart (oh joy of joys), several large bookshelves and a stack of Gourmet magazines from the 1960's and 70's.

I use the Cuisinart frequently. The bookshelves stand prominently in my apartment. But for the longest time, that stack of Gourmets sat, dusty and unloved, on the bottom shelf of a cabinet. I pulled them out a few days ago and started flipping through them, realizing that they be fun to write about. So, today I bring you a recipe from the August 1972 (35 years to the month!) Gourmet magazine for a "glazed tart of fresh raspberries." My heart struggles uncomfortably to think of all that glaze on perfect, fresh raspberries, but since it was James Beard's recipe, I imagine it was probably very tasty. Pate Brisee II

Onto a floured board sift together 2 1/2 cups sifted flour, 2 tablespoons sugar, and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Mkae a well in the center and add 1 whole egg and 1 cup of firm butter, broken into small pieces, or 2/3 cup butter and 1/3 cup shortening. Work in the butter and egg with the fingertips or a pastry blender until the mixture forms small pieces about the size of peas. Add just enough ice water to moisten the dough an dorm it into a mass with tightly cupped hands. Break off small pieces, about 2 to 3 tablespoons and with the heel of the hand push each one across the board to flatten it With the aid of a dough scraper pull them together. Form the dough into a firm ball, wrap it in wax paper or foil (these days plastic wrap is recommended), and chill it for 2 to 24 hours. Makes enough dough for two 9-inch flan or tart cases or 15 to 18 tartlet shells.

Raspberry Tart

On a lightly floured surface roll out pate brisee II 3/16 inch thick and transfer it to a baking sheet. With a ruler and sharp knife or cutting wheel cut out a triangle with a 12 1/2 inch base and 11 inch sides. Remove the excess dough and reserve is for another use.

On a lightly floured surface roll out quick puff paste (it references a recipe printed in the January 1972 edition of the magazine. I don't have that one, so I can't pull the recipe, but at this point, I would recommend buying some puff pastry and calling it a day) 1/4 inch thick. With a ruler and sharp knife or cutting wheel cut out 2 strip, 12 1/2 inches long and 3/4 inch wide, and 4 strips, 11 inches long and 3/4 inches wide. Moisten the edge of the triangle with cold water and arrange one of the 12 1/2 inch strips along the base. Moisten the top of the strip with cold water and arrange the other 12 1/2 inch strip over it. Trim the edges flush with the bottom crust. Arrange the remaining strips along the sides of the triangle in the same manner, trimming them so that they do not overlap. With a fork press the sides of the strips together. Chill the shell on the baking sheet for 1 hour. Brush the top of the puff paste with an egg wash made by beating 1 egg with 1 tablespoon of water or milk and score it all around the sides with a fork. Prick the bottom all over with a fork. Bake the tart shell in the center of a hot oven (400 degrees) for 15 minutes. With a fork prick the bottom to deflate the shell. Lower the heat to moderately hot (375 degrees) and bake the shell for 10 or 15 minutes more, or until it is lightly golden and baked through. Let the shell cool on a rack.

An hour befor eserving fill the shell with about 3 pints fresh raspberries, rinsed carefully and dried, heaping them high in the center and graduating them down to the edges. (If the berries seem very clean, just pick them over very carefully).

In a heavy saucepan melt a 1-pound jar of raspberry or currant jelly and flavor it with a few drops of framboise or kirsch. Let the glaze cool slightly and spoon it over the raspberries. Serve the tart with whipped cream flavored with vanilla or framboise and slightly sweetened with confectioners' sugar.

A similar tart may be prepared with ripe loganberries, boysenberries or blackberries. Glaze the berries with melted currant jelly or, if available, loganberry.