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Making ice cream: Martha Stewart vs. Andy Rooney

Martha StewartI've never made ice cream. It's one of those foods that I think it's unnecessary to make because what you can buy in the store is just as good (if not better) than what you could make at home. I feel the same way about pasta.

But I was reading one of Andy Rooney's books (he's one of my favorite writers) and he makes ice cream a lot. He has a very simple recipe, and it doesn't include eggs at all. He says that if you add eggs, it's not ice cream, it's custard. He was on Martha Stewart's show one time, making ice cream, and she agreed that adding eggs was a bad idea. But when she was on CBS a while later, she made ice cream, and she added eggs!

So I'm curious: who's right in this? Is ice cream better with no eggs? Do eggs make it richer in some way, or just turn it into something else?

Filed Under: Television/Film
Tags: 60 minutes, cream, custard, dessert, eggs, ice cream, ice cream maker, martha stewart, martha stewart living, MarthaStewart

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Reader comments (Page 1 of 1)

Mad Cow

4-27-2007 @3:50PM Mad Cow said... Most mass commercial ice cream is indeed frozen custard (the exception is Bryers). I've made a lot of different ice cream over the years and really it comes down to what you prefer. I like the creaminess that a good custard provides, but at times enjoy the simplicity of solely a cream based frozen dessert. See Good Eats for more info. Most times it is easy enough to buy it, but I find it more fun and tasty to make your own.
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Derrick Schneider

4-27-2007 @4:01PM Derrick Schneider said... Philadelphia ice cream is made without eggs. It's a stylistic thing.

And I disagree about your initial statement: My ice cream tastes better even than our local high-end ice cream producer. I don't have to cut corners, and I can use expensive ingredients.
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Bruce Dearborn Walker

4-27-2007 @7:36PM Bruce Dearborn Walker said... The only reason to make ice cream is if you are going to do a better job than the commercial ice cream makers. It takes a little study, but it's actually pretty easy; simply use top quality ingredients and add plenty of flavorings. Very few manufacturers, for instance, use real chocolate for a flavor base, most cheap out and add cocoa. But you can use real 60% cacao bean chocolate, and make something fantastic. I have also used real lavender flowers, star anise, honeydew melon, rose petals, fresh ale, cherries, strawberries, etc. Fresh ice cream is better than anything Ben and Jerry or Steve or Hagen daas sell you in a store. There are a few artisanal shops around, but in general you can make yours at least as good.

It is not at all difficult.

As far as using eggs, I have done it in the past, but find they really don't add much to the flavor, and do add complexity to the process. I haven't used them in years. Extra chocolate or a banana, a melon, a pulverized macaroon or divinity or oatmeal cookie, or (believe it or not) a few ounces of cooked butternut or kabocha squash will add as much mouth feel and richness, as well as extra flavor.
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Alix

4-27-2007 @4:07PM Alix said... Funny, I have two batches of homemade ice cream (both with eggs) cooling off right now, awaiting the ice-cream maker for a dinner party later tonight. I love making home-made ice cream! For one, ever look at how many unnecessary ingredients are in the store-bought flavors, even the premium brands? Second, it is possible to control the level of sweetness, and like another person said, use better quality ingredients. I buy only organic milk and cream, and am using Scharffenberger chocolate for my chocolate rasberry swirl. So far every flavor I've made has been a total hit, and is far and above what you can buy in the store.
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trish sierer

4-27-2007 @4:09PM trish sierer said... I think you can make ice cream that is just as creamy as custard. Sometimes custard can be so rich it gives me a stomach ache...
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Stephanie

4-27-2007 @4:22PM Stephanie said... I totally disagree about homemade ice cream tasting the same as storebought! I do feel that way about some things (like brownies from scratch vs. a good brownie mix) but certain flavors of ice cream are 100 times better made at home. Like caramel - with your own carmelized sugar. Miles away from Haagen Daaz Dulce de Leche (which used to be my favorite).
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Nick

4-27-2007 @9:36PM Nick said... I like to use just one or two whole eggs, instead of a bunch of yolks. Just a little bit of egg helps keep the texture smoother, in my opinion.
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rckymtnski

4-27-2007 @4:45PM rckymtnski said... I love your posts, and I must also beg to differ about the flavor of homemade ice cream! My family makes ice cream on the 4th of July always, and a few other special occasions in the summer....you can adjust the flavor (we made maple by mistake instead of vanilla once and now we make that by choice most of the time!)
And our recipe uses eggs!
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Christine

4-27-2007 @10:43PM Christine said... I'm here to also challenge your statements!

I used to make homemade ice cream with my dad when I was littler, and it tasted WAY better than store bought - there's just something unique and GOOD about homemade that you can't get from the store. I think it has a little bit to do with the texture of individual batches as opposed to massive vats.

Now I've got a hankering for some homemade ice cream!
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Dmnkly

4-27-2007 @6:34PM Dmnkly said... Uh... Bob... if you really feel that storebought ice cream and pasta is as good as or better than what you can make at home, might I suggest that's less a reflection of the quality of storebought goods and more a reflection of the quality of your home cooking. It may be better than what YOU prepare at home, but please don't speak for the rest of us :-)

(In all seriousness, good storebought ice creams and pastas are passable, but not even close to the peaks you can reach at home without much trouble)

Regarding the distinction between ice cream and frozen custard, if Andy Rooney is right, then both Larousse Gastronomique and the CIA are wrong. Ice cream can absolutely contain eggs. Frozen custard TENDS to have more egg and a higher butterfat content, I believe, but another of the large difference is how much air is generally incorporated into the mixture. Custards generally incorporate much less air and are significantly denser, which only accentuates the richness.
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Steve Shickles

4-28-2007 @12:07AM Steve Shickles said... Ice cream is great no mater what...
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Aladdin Sane

4-28-2007 @10:52AM Aladdin Sane said... I made Dulce Delece at home and had to prove I made it to several people. For some strange reason they all though it was Hagen Das Ice cream. I can assure you my "high end" home made ice cream was a fraction of the cost of Hagen Das in the same quantity. Then there is homemade Gelato, mmmmmm. ;)

For reasons beyond my ability to figure out all my most favouritI made Dulce Delece at home and had to prove I made it to several people. For some strange reason they all though it was Hagen Das Ice cream. I can assure you my "high end" home made ice cream was a fraction of the cost of Hagen Das in the same quantity. Then there homemade Gelato, mmmmmm. ;)

For reasons beyond my ability to figure out all my most favourite Italian restaurants make their own pasta. YUMe Italian restaurants make their own pasta.


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MJ

4-29-2007 @10:30PM MJ said... Oh no.....homemade is 200% better! And worth all the effort. I dont use a ice cream machine. When the custard is partially frozen.Put in a blender and pour in a sealed container until its frozen. Comes out great everytime.
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David

4-30-2007 @3:57PM David said... We have a Ritters(sp) near our house and end up eating there way too much. They make frozen custard and it's creamy smooth texture is amazing. It's not from a big box store and they make them in small batches, rotating the flavors daily. It's some of the best "Ice cream" I've ever had.

http://www.ritters.com/ notice their logo says ritters frozen custard, then their tag line is "Now this is premium ice cream"...
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ragg2

5-05-2007 @8:11AM ragg2 said... can somebody let me know of a good recipe without egg? I am afraid of salmonella,so don't want to use any. And the result should be creamy!
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Macksmom

5-20-2007 @5:03PM Macksmom said... I think homemade ice cream is wonderful. To me it is not an issue of where you can buy better. It is the entire experience! I remember as a child jumping around with my cousins and siblings awaiting the moment I would get to taste the icecream as we watched the maker turn round and round. It is those simple things that we parents of today have lost between soccer games and dance practices. We just don't have the time anymore. Maybe we should all take the time this summer. I think we would all be suprised at just how excited our children would be too vs stopping by TCBY!
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16 Comments / 1 Pages

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