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Japan wants to certify sushi and Japanese cuisine as authentic


The Japanese government wants to set up a certifying board to regulate sushi served in restaurants abroad. Japan's Agriculture Ministry has convened a panel of food experts who will establish certification standards for Japanese restaurants outside the country. The standards should be decided upon sometime in the next month or so. They will focus on all foods that are part of the Japanese cuisine such as sushi preparation and styles, noodles, teriyaki, etc.

The thought behind this is that by certifying restaurants as authentic it will raise the level of the quality of food prepared, and educate people as to what the food should be like when prepared properly. There are around 10,000+ "authentic" Japanese restaurants in the US, double what there were a little over a decade ago. This has led to a shortage of classically trained chefs, especially sushi chefs.

Becoming a sushi chef is a big deal in Japan. It takes many years of apprenticeship. First a few years learning how to make rice before you are even allowed to touch it, then learning about fish, types, slicing, arrangement, tastes, preparation, etc. Chefs of this quality are lacking in many Japanese and sushi restaurants abroad, leading to poor quality and "inauthentic" sushi.

In The US I have seen sushi chefs who have only a few weeks experience and don't know anything besides how to throw together a few messy maki rolls. They don't know the proper ways to slice fish to present it best and have it melt tenderly in your mouth. Instead you end up eating slabs of fish filled with tough connective tissue because it was cut the wrong way.

Personally I am a bit of a traditionalist when it comes to sushi. I don't like most fancy maki sushi (rolls), and prefer nigiri sushi, or better yet sashimi to sushi. I want to taste the fish, not the other ingredients. But I also feel there is a place for creativity in the kitchen and at the sushi bar. While I may not like cream cheese, bananas, or peanut butter in my sushi, some of these creations are interesting and tasty. Many, like the ubiquitous California roll, have taken the world by storm and are even eaten in Japan. Although I never saw or ate at a Sushi restaurant in Japan that served anything other than classic, traditional sushi and sashimi, whether it be maki, futomaki, temaki, nigiri, chirashi, inari, etc.

As for other aspects of Japanese cuisine. In this I actively look forward to more authenticity being brought to the average Japanese restaurant. I have been served more bowls of soup masquerading as sukiyaki than I care to think about. Improperly prepared teriyaki, tempura, and cheap hot sake served from a machine abound. Most are a far cry from what the dish should really taste like with many being overly sweet or prepared with poor quality ingredients.

While I don't know what the reaction will eventually be to this certifying board, I do hope that it will lead to better quality Japanese food becoming available. I also hope that it will mean that more modest Japanese restaurants will improve. Then maybe you won't have to go to high end restaurants so expensive that you have to sell your first born, or mortgage your house, to afford a meal that is authentic, traditional, and tasty.

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