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MSNBC had a wonderful in-depth piece about the phenomenon of Canto-Western cuisine, i.e. old-school interpretations of Western dishes by Hong Kong chefs. I heard of this style of cooking years ago, but never knew much about it, or just how oddball some of its fusion dishes are. Imagine starting your meal with a prawn and fruit salad topped with a dollop of mayonnaisey cream. Follow that up with an app of Swiss sauce chicken wings. Here comes your steak sputtering on a sizzle plate awash in soy sauce and garlic gravy. If you're not in a meaty mood, get some fried rice layered with tomato or cream sauce. The article notes that Canto-Western sprang up in the '60s and '70s at steakhouses. It was Hong Kong's attempt to come to grips with Western food which, at the time, was considered exotic. This phenomenon is strikingly similar to old-school Chinese restaurants in America. Not unsurprisingly, going out to eat at a Canto-Western joint is a nostalgic experience now that all sort of Western fare is available in Hong Kong.
One of the best places in Hong Kong to sample Canto-Western is Tai-Ping Koon, which opened its first branch in Guangdong (formerly canton) more than a hundred years ago. It was Tai-Ping Koon that invented Swiss sauce chicken wings, which turn out to have nothing do with Switzerland. Legend has it that a foreigner who tasted the dish proclaimed it sweet, which was misheard as Swiss.
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1-12-2007 @8:07PM bdw said... The Chinese have a distinct philosophy of cuisine. Wherever they go, they adapt local ingredients to that philosophy. I have had some incredible and difficult to describe meals (Shrimp with bananas, chiles, and tomatillos--somehow perfectly balanced as to sweetness, saltiness, and heat) at restaurants in Yucatan and Veracruz that were run by Chinese families. Not so much in Sonora and Chihuahua, in fact my brother and myself have both reported our single worst meals were in different Chinese restaurants in Guaymas, Sonora (inedible salty glop with way too much oyster sauce and soy, and canned bean sprouts). I have some pretty strange but usually good, or at least edible, results in New England. (Fiddlehead ferns with scallops, honey, sesame oil, Szechuan peppers, star anise,and white sesame seeds).
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1-12-2007 @6:01PM Sindy said... That chicken looks so good I want to lick the screen!
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3-19-2007 @2:16PM Leena said... Fusion cuisine is a beautiful, beautiful thing. I've incorporated American ingredients into the tradititional dishes my mother bought over from the Orient... ended up with funky stuff; soy sauce in salsa, avacados and kim-chee or bul-go-gi, sticky rice with worchestire sauce, rooster sauce on eggs benedict, nori-BBQ wraps, ect. *Love it.* Then again, I have very odd tastes.
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