Gin is one of my favorite types of spirits. Over the next few months I will post reviews on quite a few of them, but first I should cover some background on the subject. Gin could technically be called a type of infused spirit sort of like the infused vodkas that are so popular today.
Gin was first created around 1650 in Holland by a physician as a medicinal tonic and was called genever, which is Dutch for juniper. Genever as a tonic was very rough, heavy, and sweet. The English started drinking the spirit and shortened the name to gin, as well as changing the recipe over time to become dry, i.e. not sweet. Genever is still made in the Netherlands but has developed over time to its current form.
To be called gin, the primary or base flavor/aroma is juniper berries which have a piney, sweet/sharp taste and smell. In addition gin may have a wide variety of herbs, spices, roots, pits, peels, and other plant substances added for more complex flavor. These flavoring elements are referred to as botanicals. Some commonly used botanicals besides juniper are: almonds, angelica, aniseed, caraway seed, cardamom pods, cassia, cinnamon, citrus peel (lemon, orange, and bitter orange), coriander seed, cubeb berries, cumin seed, fennel seed, ginger root, iris root, licorice root, nutmeg, paradise grain, savory, star anise, and violet root. Probably anything else you can imagine has been used as well.
Gin can be made in several ways, all starting with pure neutral spirits of high strength, basically 100% alcohol. One way is cold compounding, which is infusing the botanicals directly in the neutral spirits for various periods of time and then filtering it clear and lowering the alcohol content with pure water. Another way is using essential oils of different botanicals and adding this to the neutral spirits and then diluting. The main way it is made is through distillation using a pot still or a column still. In the still there are racks which hold the botanicals. The alcohol steam/vapor runs through the herbs and spices picking up their flavors and aromas, afterwards the spirit is diluted to final strength.
There are three main gin types/styles. Dry Gin; German Gin, also called Steinhager, and Dutch/Holland Gin, also called Genever.
Dry Gin / English Dry Gin / London Dry Gin- This type is made from neutral grain spirits as a base. This is what most people consider to be gin. A dry, aromatic clear spirit now bottled at around 40% alcohol/80 proof. Originally it was bottled at just over 50% alcohol/100 proof but eventually gin was preferred to be a bit less hot and hard, so the softer style became the one most accepted and some people experts identify the lower alcohol dry gin as "Soft" gin. The two styles seem to both be evolving and may split up into two distinctive styles one day. Dry (and "soft") gin use anywhere from three to over twenty botanicals in addition to juniper. It can be very complex or very simple according to the amount and type of botanicals. As in its name, it is a dry/not sweet in flavor. Some of the new premium gins are less dry than typical for the style. English Dry Gin as a style is much dryer / less sweet than Genever and more complex than Steinhager. Gordon's gin is the number one selling in the world and what I use as a personal benchmark for a classic, clean, dry gin. It isn't overly complex, nor is it simple; it's just a very well made gin. Dry gins mix very well and due to the botanicals can create some fantastic flavors in a cocktail that you wouldn't get using vodka. Premium and super premium gins are best drunk on the rocks to enjoy the complexity, although many do use them in mixed drinks which I think is a shame.
Plymouth Gin was once a distinctive type of gin but has come to be classified under London Dry as s sub-type because of its similarity. The brand Plymouth Gin is the only gin that can use the name Plymouth or Plymouth style. It is soft and smooth in character.
German Gin / Steinhager- This style is made from neutral grain spirits as a base. This is a unique type because under German law it can only be flavored with juniper berries and no other botanicals. It is a dry style, but not as complex as London Dry or Genever because of the lack of botanicals that are used in those styles. It is the essence of gin, just a dominant juniper flavor and aroma. Schlichte Steinhager Gin is the one usually encountered outside of Germany and is readily recognized by its tall, thin, brown ceramic bottle.
Dutch/Holland Gin a.k.a. Genever- There are a few Dry Style gins made in Holland such as Leyden and Zuidam. The huge majority are Genever which are thick, somewhat sweet, and at times overwhelming with intensity and complexity. These are more like the original gins created back in the mid to late 1600's. They are made with malt liquor as a base, not neutral grain spirits. Genever have a more robust flavor than dry styles because of the full, strong, malt spirit base. There are also several age classifications in Genever. The ones I know of are Jonge- which is unaged and Oude- aged at least one year in oak barrels. Genever is usually drunk chilled straight, on the rocks or shaken, but with no mixer. It really doesn't mix well and loses its pleasant mouthfeel and complexity when it is used in a mixed drink. The main makers of genever are Bols, Boomsa, and De Kuyper; Zuidam makes it as well.
So here you have the basics on gin, if you have any questions or comments feel free to ask and I will try to answer in a future post.










Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
10-30-2006 @ 9:48PM
Spitzmaus said...
Ah, gin! Thank you, Jonathan, for the informative post on what is one of my favorite spirits as well; I look forward to your reviews, particularly your take on what I consider to be the must-have of dry gins (nameless until I read the review!).
The only true martini is made with gin . . .
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10-31-2006 @ 6:04AM
JMD said...
This is going to be interesting, but I took note of the alcohol level comment. Most London Dry gins when bought taxfree is of the proper strength of 47 % alcohol. The only bottles I have present are taxfree (47%) and taxed (40%) Bombay Sapphire and a taxfree (50%) Beefeater Crown Jewel. And the of course there is the fantastic Plymouth navy Strength (57%) which is perfect for gin'n'tonic as you can lower the ratio of gin just a tiny bit to get that perfect balanced taste.
You must be in the UK since you have the different strength/price structure. I wish I could get my hands on some of the domestic UK gins here in the US to try at full strength. I will have to make a visit to my cousins in England and Wales sometime soon and do some research... If I can get someone to pay my way. Enjoy them and tell us about it. Jonathan
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10-31-2006 @ 9:45AM
Cindy said...
Gin is one of my favorites, too. I love a Bombay Sapphire martini with a lemon twist. Beefeaters is decent with an olive (I prefer blue-cheese stuffed). I waiting for my local store to restock the Hendrick's gin so I can experiment and see if a martini made with it would be better with cucumber or rose petal garnish. Tanqueray leaves me cold. Mixed with tonic, it's okay but I don't care for Tanqueray martinis.
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10-31-2006 @ 10:11AM
bdw said...
Although I like hard liquors, I have never been able to warm up to gin. Friends have made me supposedly excellent martinis, but they leave me cold. Could you recommend some "beginners cocktails" that bring out the flavors of gin over vodka without overwhelming the taste buds?
Gin can be overwhelming, like many spirits. I don't do cocktails and except for an rare martini, a margarita on the rocks, and Tim Loves incredible Lonesome Dove Jalapeno Margaritas, I haven't had a cocktail or mixed drink in over 15 years. I used to like martinis but lost my taste for them. I have found that the best way to try new spirits is to first taste a tiny bit in a glass such as brandy snifter and first sniff and then let a drop touch the tongue. If this is too much then put a few ice cubes in a glass and add a small amount of the spirit. Stir, taste, add a little water, stir, taste and continue until you get to the perfect point, for YOU, where the drink opens up and the flavors come alive. This amount changes for everyone as how we perceive flavors and alcohol is different for each of us. Try the classic gin and tonic, or a gin and Bitter Lemon which is very refreshing. Also gin goes good with a splash of grapefruit and then topped with seltzer. Many cocktails that are sweet or fruity have a gin base since the sugar and fruit bring out hidden flavors in the gin. Jonathan
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10-31-2006 @ 5:39PM
Seth Wilson said...
Thanks for the great Gin article. Ive read the Gin page on wiki and thought it was fascinating. Martini's and Gin have become a favorite of mine only in the last year. Ive tried several brands and was looking for something new when I discovered Sartilicious brand Gin. Made right here in my hometown of Santa Cruz California. I highly recomend it....straight up that is.
I have wanted to try Sartilicious but it doesn't seem to be available in NYC. Can you give us a short review? Jonathan
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11-01-2006 @ 10:05AM
walt said...
At one time Tanquery made a gin called "malacca "
Can you suggest a comperable substitute ??
Thanks
I'm right there with you about Tanqueray Malacca Gin. It's a crying shame they took it off the market. It was a citrus and spice gin, with a hint of sweet, and a nice piney base, and very smooth. I did find some consistency problems with it and had a few bottles that were spicier and a few that were more citrus heavy. I found out they were discontinueing the product and that a friend with a liquor store got 5 cases at below cost. I immediately bought three of them from him at half of the wholesale cost. they lasted me almost a year. I know only one bar that has any left and that's a half bottle that they sell a shot for $10 bucks! I have just started making my way through the gins of the world as I can find them and will review as I get a chnace or new products to try. I just wish I had more than a dusty old memory of the Malacca so I could give you a good replacement. until then try Hendrick's just because it's great, No. 209 which has some citrus and spice, or the Seagrams which I reviewed the other day which also has light citrus and spice. Jonathan
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11-05-2006 @ 2:23PM
Miss Tenacity said...
I read a review of gins (on the Observer UK, I think) that commented on Bombay Sapphire (the first gin I liked) and called it "gin for people who don't like gin".
I look forward to this series to broaden my gin education! Thank you.
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11-16-2006 @ 2:33AM
Ronald Blythe said...
Gin and grapefruit juice go well together. I would recommend it with soursop too. Best served blended with ice and a bit of sugar. Sort of like a smoothie. But better with crushed ice I think. I like gin too. Add any fruit juice and you won't even sense the bitter taste. And when you just want to drink classic style, gin and tonic is always a refreshing choice.
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