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Undersize me: The starvation diet


As someone whose second meal yesterday was a late supper at a local sushi bar, preceded by a lunch of a succulent chicken shawarma platter chock full of bits of crunchy skin, the very idea of a near-starvation diet that may increase longevity engenders nothing less than sheer horror.

Adherents of Calorie Restriction follow a diet that leaves their bodies close to starvation in the hopes that such a regimen will radically increase their life span. Or so I learned yesterday after reading a fascinating article about it in this month's New York Magazine.

The author, Julian Dibbell, gives the movement a fair shake. He cites scientific evidence that curtailing caloric intake in mice increases their life span 50 percent. He also makes what I consider a monumental sacrifice by toeing the CR line for two months.

Perhaps diet is the wrong word for the CR approach to eating. Hunger strike is more apt. Dibbell's 1,800 calorie a day diet caused him to lose 21 pounds. This comes as no surprise given that he says the minimum intake for an adult male is 2,500 calories. Upon meeting him at a dinner party, several long-time CR proponents expressed concern that he should eat more. When I read that some of the folks at the party asked whether Dibbell was having his blood checked, I realized the whole concept is like Super Size Me flipped on its head.

Even if this austere approach where one portions out greens by the gram were to make me live to 100, I know I'd be miserable. For one thing, there's no way I'd be able to indulge in barbecue. And I'd run the risk of blowing my daily caloric intake with a pint of stout.

The author had the good sense to end his two-month period of deprivation with an orgy that included fast food and deli meats. Speaking of deli meats, Josh Ozersky erstwhile Slashfoodie now editor of New York magazine's food blog Grub Street had an amusing take on CR. A typical breakfast under his idea of caloric reduction would consist of a dried endpiece of Katz's salami (paper removed), a White Castle burger and a cup of tea. Now that's austere.

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