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Beer report: Reissdorf Kölsch

Kölsch is a German beer style that I began to explore late in my long and checkered career as a beer geek. Real late, as in a few weeks ago.


I'm not sure what took me so long. I'd tasted it before. My brewcrastination may be largely due to the fact that so many other big, flavorful German beers just shouldered the gentle beer from Cologne out of my palate's way.

My first real experience with kölsch was at a birthday party for my dear friend and fellow carnivore Josh Ozersky. Much meat and many glasses of Gaffel kölsch were consumed. I came away with the impression that I could easily quaff voluminous amounts of this refreshing nectar on a hot day in a biergärten. Dazed as I was by meat and alcohol, I still retained enough clarity to know that I needed to investigate this venerable brew.

So it came to pass that I cracked a bottle of Reissdorf kölsch in my stuffy apartment the other day. Purists will tell you that I should have sipped it from a long, thin cylinder known as a stange, instead of the goblet I chose. Alas, my arsenal of beer steins, pint glasses and Belgian beer goblets lacks these glasses, which some disparagingly call test tubes.

My choice of glassware in no way interfered with my enjoyment of this light-bodied, golden beer. It had little pronounced hop flavor, though as it warmed I caught distinct notes of toasted grain. In any case there's usually little wrong to be found with a beer that proudly states on the label that it was brewed in accordance with the Reinheitsgebot of 1516, or the German beer purity law.

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