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Cooking Live with Slashfood: Pizza Margherita

This pizza was made with a crust recipe that I got out of the most recent issue of Cooks Illustrated. As soon as I read the article saying that they had come up with a way to replicate the light, crisp crust of pizzeria pizza in a home oven, I knew I needed to try it.

Let me just say that I was not disappointed at all. This was definitely the best pizza crust I have ever made - and better than many that I have had in restaurants. It was light, crisp and delicious - not to mention that the outside edge was full of delightfully airy holes. I may never use another crust recipe.

There are a couple of things (beyond ingredients) that you need to have to make this recipe work, something that is not surprising for a Cooks Illustrated recipe, as they tend to be quite specific. You will need a food processor and a baking stone. The food processor is used to produce a silky, supple dough in a very short period of time and the baking stone is vital to getting an evenly cooked crust. I used a scale to weigh my ingredients, but the recipe gave alternate measurements, which I have included here.

The other important thing is cake flour, a low protein flour. According to the test kitchen, using a standard pizzeria crust will not work as well in a standard oven because it is incapable of replicating the 700/800F temperatures of commercial pizzeria ovens. Make sure to find cake flour for this to ensure optimal results.

This Cooking Live entry is a combination recipe/photo essay. The instructions follow the pictures and, hopefully, they will help you stay on track while cooking.

Pizza Margherita
(from Cooks Illustrated)

1 1/4 tsp instant yeast
1 cup water, room temperature
1 3/4 cups (8 3/4 oz) all-purpose flour, plus more for work surface
1 cup (4 oz) cake flour
1 1/2 tsp salt
2 tsp sugar

Preheat the oven to 500F with your baking stone on the oven rack. This gives the stone about an hour to heat up while the dough rises.

Measure the ingredients. Dissolve the yeast in the water. Combine flours, salt and sugar in the bowl of a food processor.

Pulse flour mixture several times to combine it, then gradually pour in the yeast mixture with the motor running. Keep blended for about 2 minutes, until the dough is supple and elastic, as shown in the two photos below.

 If the dough sticks to the sides of the mixer and doesn't come together, add an extra tablespoon or two of flour. If it is too dry to come together, add an extra tablespoonful of water.

Once your dough is smooth and supple, take it out of the food processor and divide it in two. Shape each piece into a tight ball by gathering the edges and pushing them into the center, as pictured above. Pinch the edge to seal.

Place dough balls on a lightly floured surface and cover with lightly oiled plastic wrap or a clean dish towel. Let rise for 1 hour, or until doubled in size.

Take the risen dough and, working with one ball of dough at a time, place on a lightly floured surface. Flatten the dough into an 8-inch disk, then stretch the edges gently  until the dough is about 12-inches in diameter (pictured below). You can also gently stretch the dough by placing it on the backs of your hands, but take care that is does not develop weak spots.

Once the dough has been shaped, place it on wooden peel that has been sprinkled with cornmeal. If you do not have a peel, use an edge-less baking sheet that has been sprinkled with cornmeal instead.

Spread dough with a thin layer of pizza/tomato sauce and fresh mozarella that has been cut into 1/4-1/2 inch pieces. Do not overdo the toppings, as pizza margherita is meant to be thin and crisp.

Slide the pizza off of the peel/baking sheet and onto the preheated baking stone in a 500F oven. Bake for 5-10 minutes, until crust is browned and cheese has melted.

Slide peel under pizza to remove if from the baking stone. Serve immediately and repeat with remaining dough ball for second pizza.

[All Photos by Nicole Weston]

Filed Under: Cooking Live with Slashfood, How To, Methods
Tags: baking, best pizza, best pizza recipe, cooking live, cooks illustrated, home, homemade, how to, nicole weston, oven, photo essay, pizza, pizza stone, pizzas, recipe

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Reader comments (Page 1 of 1)

sammy

6-14-2006 @7:48PM sammy said... why does the cheese look like little balls and not cut as in the description?

and you are right that there's way too much cheese--and sauce--on most american pizza!


Reply

Nicole Weston

6-14-2006 @7:55PM Nicole Weston said... The cheese looks like little balls because some stores (Trader Joe's) sell fresh mozzarella already in 1/4-1/2-inch pieces. That is what I used, but is is no different from cutting a larger piece of mozzarella.
Reply

tr

6-14-2006 @11:00PM tr said... so they say use a flour with less protein? i've had great results with alton brown's pizza dough recipe (http://www.foodnetwork.com/food/recipes/recipe/0,,FOOD_9936_13823,00.html). it creates a crisp, airy crust, much like you describe. i use the "crank up the oven to 11" method, with my home depot quarry tiles inside.:) anyway, back to alton's recipe... it calls for bread flour for bread machines. the higher protein content in the flour results in more gluten production.

i'd like to know cook's illustrated's explanation for the addition of cake flour, especially since the amount is less than half of the total amount of flour used. i will definitely have to try this recipe and compare it to the one i've been using.

Reply

Nicole Weston

6-14-2006 @11:04PM Nicole Weston said... I wrote a bit about it here, with a bit more info on the protein content: http://bakingsheet.blogspot.com/2006/06/perfect-pizza-crust.html
Honestly, the best thing to do is to pick up a copy of the current issue. They go into such detail, it's worth the read.
Reply

Trav

6-15-2006 @6:59AM Trav said... good Pizza
Reply

Art McClure

6-15-2006 @7:45AM Art McClure said... I used to make a bunch of pizza, and the most important thing was not to add too much tomato sauce, a thin layer. Great article, great pictures. Now for some toppings.

Art
Reply

toufic

6-16-2006 @1:45PM toufic said... I thought a pizza margherita had to have basil in it? It was created for the Princess Margherit of Italy, and had the 3 colors of the flag: red sauce, white cheese and green basil...
Reply

David

6-16-2006 @2:25PM David said... The CI recipe does call for Basil, toufic, but it's in the sauce, not sprinkled on top of the cheese (which is added part way through baking).
Cook's thought the dough was too sticky/fragile for hand tossing, but I had no issues, and was able to get very thin, even crust, which can be hard to achieve with the stretch & rotate method.
If I remember from reading the issue, the advantage to cake flower was a pliable dough in a shorter amount of time (no overnight rise/rest needed). It was amazingly pliable compared to other recipes, given the same amount of time.
Reply

Rashid Khan

6-19-2006 @4:25PM Rashid Khan said... tr -
Alton Brown's recipe is flawed in a number of ways. He acknowledges on his personal site that the amount of salt recommended is horribly off due to variances in salt brands.

In all, his theory is all there, but he leaves out some crucial information, a prime example being hydration factor. His recipe calls for 2 cups of flour and 3/4 cup of water. What suprised me with this episode is that he was wholey unscientific in his amounts. Making some weight assumptions (I won't bore you with the calculation) his dough yeilds approximately a 61% hydration level, this is on the very low side of allowable hyrdation levels and leaves you with a difficult to stretch dough. Somewhere between 63% and 67% is appropriate. My personal dough is 65%.

The problem is further compounded by the addition of oil and salt right at the beginning, both of which impeed the absorbtion of water into the flour. Furthermore, he uses a massive amount of yeast and so much sugar the dough come out tasting sweet.

Additionally, he suggests oiling the finished doughball and placing in the fridge. I'd suggest dividing it up before the fridge and placing it in individual containers. This removes the tendancy of the dough to develop thin spots due to reshaping after it has been oiled.

I invite you to checkout pizzamaking.com's Pizza Forum. I couldn't believe how wrong my pizza method was until I started experimenting with the ideas thrown out there.

If you're not into forums, just check out Jeff Varasano's recipe and method. Its more work than Alton Brown's recipe, but the results are an order of maginitude better. http://www.think2020.com/jv/recipe.htm
Reply

9 Comments / 1 Pages

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