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Frank Bruni does fast food

I mentioned this story briefly in the roundup of this week's NY Times dining section, but didn't elaborate there because it really deserves its own post. Frank Bruni, the food critic known for his love of the finer foods in life, hit the road in a rented Ford Taurus and ate his way through 42 fast food restaurants, mostly in the southern half of the country. His goal was to find out the best fast food chains in the country, "from familiar national chains, relatively unfamiliar regional chains and tiny local chains [he] had never encountered." He stopped in at places like McDonald's, Dairy Queen, Chick-fil-a and Whataburger, eating burgers, fries andother fried foods in pursuit of his goal.

 

As you might imagine from the map above, Bruni only hit part of the country and, unlike real roadfoodies, did it all in nine days. Some things were bound to be left out and, after nine days of fast food, probably nothing really tastes good anymore. This could explain why the west coast restaurants were not very well-received and why many were skipped over entirely. Bruni didn't like In-N-Out as much as he probably should have nor as much as most people do. Why? He liked the fresh, high quality ingredients, but didn't like the thinness of the well-done patty. He wanted it to be medium, but the crispy-on-the-edges burger isn't meant to be that way. California fast food fans might also be interested to note that he didn't like the chili at Tommy's, either.

A slower, less obsessive trip is probably in order to really find the "best" fast food in the country, but this is Bruni's top ten list for now.

  • Four-piece Original Recipe combo from KFC
  • Chili from Wendy's
  • Tots from Sonic
  • Chili slaw dog from the Varsity
  • Onion rings from the Varsity
  • Classic chicken sandwich from Chick-fil-A
  • Georgia Mud Fudge Blizzard from Dairy Queen
  • Cheddar burger from Culver's
  • Frozen vanilla custard, Culver's
  • Burrito Ultimo from Taco Cabana

 [Image NYT]

Source

Filed Under: Newspapers, Super Size Me, Chefs & Restaurants, Restaurants
Tags: america, bruni, california, chick fil a, culver's, dairy queen, east coast, fast food, frank bruni, KFL, sonic, Kfl,Sonic, restaurants, road trip, south, southern states, super size me, the varsiry, west coast, whataburger

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Reader comments (Page 1 of 5)

Franz Hemingbeck

5-24-2006 @11:27AM Franz Hemingbeck said... After several years of not eating any fast food at all due to losing my appetite for it because of Fast Food Nation, I've eaten at Burger King, Carl's Junior, McD, and Hardees a few times this year because I've been stuck in places with no other choice.

What really blows me away is that people eat this crap on a regular basis. To me, most fast food is only slightly above the level of dog food. My wife and I tried splitting a Burger King Texas Whopper and we both were nauseated by the soy protein addled "beef" they try to pass off as hamburger.

In fact, none of these places seem to sell real meat anymore. Everything seems to be pre-formed, obscenely salted, and pretty much inedible.

Considering the amazing culinary heritage of our country, the notion that the majority of our country is fine with fast food/chain swill is appalling.
Reply

DanGarion

5-24-2006 @12:26PM DanGarion said... I'm sorry to say, but I'm getting tired of these people that constantly try to say that the meat at a fast food joint isn't 100% USDA beef. I worked in the fast food business for some time and the only beef we ever used was 100% USDA beef, no fillers and no soy added. Prove to me that it's being done instead of just making assumptions.
Reply

Rex from Ars

5-24-2006 @3:03PM Rex from Ars said... 2 of the Top 10 spots taken by my old hometown's landmark fast food place (The Varsity)?

Woo-hoo!
Reply

Jared

5-24-2006 @4:08PM Jared said... Talk about working yourself to death...
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Bob Paiva

5-29-2006 @6:35AM Bob Paiva said... I'm a fast food aholic. To me KFC, Popeye's Fried Chicken, McDonalds Quarter Pounder With Cheese and an accassional Taco Belle specialty are the ultimate comfort foods.
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David Fiekowsky

5-29-2006 @6:58AM David Fiekowsky said... KFC at top of list? Ugh, did you miss Pollo Loco, or any of the other at least ten far superior chicken fast foods in socal? Funny you complain about soy filler in burgers ( I suspect incorrectly) but were you unable to taste the "thickening agents" in the shake you commemorate?
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Jane Black

5-29-2006 @7:12AM Jane Black said... Has anyone heard of Blake's (aka Lotaburger)? It's a burger chain, local to New Mexico, and they serve the best fast-food hamburgers I've ever tasted. Plus, they have a black raspberry shake, spiced fries, and onion rings, all freshly prepared to order, to die for in a nice way.
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Bill Tjaden

5-29-2006 @7:26AM Bill Tjaden said... If Frank Bruni had come to New Jersey and tried a "Ripper" from Rutt's Hut in Clifton he would have had a different winner. A Ripper is a hot dog that is deep fried until it rips open and is then covered with chili sauce. NJ has the best Texas Weiners.
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D

5-29-2006 @7:31AM D said... He liked Wendy's Chili? Geez rather eat something expressed from a wound.
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Wayne Starkey

5-29-2006 @7:32AM Wayne Starkey said... We look at fast food and know that the overall menu is not the best for us, yet some of us might not make any better choices if they were to buy groceries and eat at home. At many of the fast food places there is a selection of salads, sandwiches, drinks, as not to be so indifferent in our choices at home--the fast food places aren't bad--we are the ones making the selections as to what we eat.
A fish sandwich, salad and a coke--go Mr Bruni and never stop.

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Dave Ruddle

5-29-2006 @7:52AM Dave Ruddle said... I appreciated your fast food article and research which we will take into account in the operation of a local restaurant chain that has been a popular establishment for 66 years in Columbia, SC. http://rushs.net/history.htm

Rush's was named one of the nation's top 5 fast food operations in Restaurant Business Magazine.

Next time you embark on an epicurean odyssey, perhaps you'll come to South Carolina to sample a Chili-Cheese Burger from Rush's. On the way to Columbia, you might stop in Spartanburg to check out the onion rings at The Beacon Restaurant. In local competitions, we've won Best Hamburger, Best Milkshake and Best Fast Food for years. Thanks for the interesting article.

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Janice Benner

5-29-2006 @7:57AM Janice Benner said... Tim Hortons has great coffee and food.
For a newer fast food place in my area--they are very good.
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Mary

5-29-2006 @8:11AM Mary said... In the Antelope Valley in California the local chain called Primo Burgers have great burgers and breakfast burritos. The rest of the menu is pretty decent too having a wide variety of foods.
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Robert Drury

5-29-2006 @8:14AM Robert Drury said... Whataburger is a Texas institution. This chain owned by the Dobson family out of Corpus Christi Texas actually uses fresh never frozen 100% beef. They do in fact raise their own cattle. They also use a special onion for their onion rings, grown by one group to certain specifications.

I do have to also agree with Ms Jane Black, that Blakes Lottaburger in New Mexico makes a great burger. Just look for the sign of the guy in the red and white sports coat and top hat with their sign.
Reply

M. Olivia Wilson

5-29-2006 @8:14AM M. Olivia Wilson said... Since Frank Bruni, the food critic, did not begin his travels in the Pacific Northwest he missed his opportunity to eat at Burgerville. Founded in 1961, this is a Northwest tradition for made-to-order hamburgers and old-time ambience. Known for using fresh ingredients, this local fast-food chain's signature Pepper Bacon-Tillamook Cheddar Cheeseburger is made from local ground round, while the garden burger, low-fat chicken sandwich and halibut fish sandwich are diet-friendly. Primary-colored chairs and tables, chrome-trimmed counters and retro jukeboxes transport diners back to the malt-shop era of the '50s and '60s. The Burgerville in downtown Vancouver USA has outdoor picnic tables where I like to eat a mighty tasty Pepper Bacon-Tillamook Cheddar Cheeseburger and people watch.
Reply

Mary

5-29-2006 @8:20AM Mary said... In the Antelope Valley in California the local chain called Primo
Burgers have great burgers and breakfast burritos. The rest of the
menu is pretty decent too having a wide variety of foods.

Reply

sylvia

5-29-2006 @8:28AM sylvia said... I love burger king, their Whoppers and fish sandwiches are great. I hate McDonald burgers, tastes like soy. Sobiks is good, too.
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Karen

5-29-2006 @8:30AM Karen said... Anyone eating at any fast food place deserves the fat and calories they get. I rarely eat at many of the greasy ones preferring a good deli sandwich. Plus most all of the fast food places get their animals from non humane places, KFC for instance has had it on record that the workers throw the chickens against walls, stomp on them, and the like while handling them. I do not eat these places because of the inhumane treatment of the animals grown and killed for burgers and chicken patties, the use of growth hormones, the antibiotics used resulting in antibiotic resistant salmonella, inhumane slaughtering methods and the like.

When I see the fat parents, fat kids and trash at some of these places, I see why our society is the way it is.
Reply

Milton

5-29-2006 @8:31AM Milton said... My complaint of most fast foods is the high quanity
of salt used. Some times all I can taste is salt.
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john

5-29-2006 @8:37AM john said... AsI have traveled for years for business,I have tried fast food through out many states. Whatburger is good and tastes fresh,but doesnt compare to a small chain in the midwest called Runza. They not only have the best tasting chicken and hamburgers, they have their own sandwich brought over from Germany,which was even shown on the food network. However, no chains compare to the small one or two place operations. I think,like they say in the car rental ads, being number 2 they try harder.
Reply

95 Comments / 5 Pages

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