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New York Magazine recently had chef Masayoshi "Masa" Takayama review 10 santoku knives. Takayama is the namesake of the much talked about, high-dollar sushi restaurant Masa in New York City. It follows that he'd be able to give some opinions on Japanese-style chef's knives. At the top of the list was the Shun Classic 6.5" knife (right), which NYM says retails for around $95. At the bottom was the Rachel Ray Füri Coppertail 7", for around $70. (It's worth mentioned that Shun has a line of knives endorsed by Alton Brown.) In between were offerings from J.A. Henkels, Global, OXO and Wüstoff, among others. Masa tested the knives without sharpening them, using them to chop onions, boneless chicken and parsley. He then tested them as he tests his own knives, by seeing how well they cut through a sheet of parchment paper. [Via Saute Wednesday]
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5-19-2006 @9:56PM druchyun said... That guy is on Kai/Shun's payroll... The description that he uses for the Shun is straight out of their advertisments. Yeah, the Shun is very sharp out of the box but I think the Globals stay sharper (though I must agree the Global santoku feels very awkward). Also, can they please get rid of that cheezy chinese character on the side of the Shun blade? Did he give any praise for the handle? No, because it's uncomfortable, I don't care if it's "D" shaped and made out of "Pakka wood". I think the shape of the Shun knives horrible because shape of the blades are German style but are thin like Japanese knives which makes for a awkward feel. I bought a Shun chef knife and I rarely use it, but always find myself reaching for my 10" french chef knife and Global 7inch veggie. People buy Santoku knives because they're supposed to be multipurpose, but I think if you use a 10" chef correctly, it can be much more effective overall. And if Sarah Moulton can wield one, anyone can because she's tiny. Anyway, I think Masa's REAL favorite is the Misono because he can at least explain why he likes it based on it's non-visual qualities, the way a knife should be evaluated. Well, the guy's gotta get paid.
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5-21-2006 @9:51AM mella said... My santoku is a Henkel of the Five Star variety, and I find it extremely comfortable to use. It just suits my hand and the way I cut very well. I do agree that my 10" chef's knife can do everything the santoku does, but it is not the one I would pick up for preference. I think a lot of people are buying the santoku based on celebrity-chef endorsement when they might actually be better off with something else. Just another reinforcement of the idea that you must handle a knife before you can know if it's right for you.
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