What makes a Black and White a Black and White?

If people would only look to the cookie all our problems would be solved." - Jerry Seinfeld, Seinfeld (The Dinner Party)

Black and White cookies are one of the best things to ever come out of New York City, where they are so popular that they could be the city’s food mascot, with thin crust pizza running a close second. At first glance, the cookie looks relatively simple, but achieving Black and White perfection isn’t, well, black and white.

A real Black and White cookie has a thick, cakelike base. It is softer than a cookie and lacks the chew that a sugar cookie – which many bakers unfortunately choose to use as their base – would have. It also is not nearly as sweet as a sugar cookie, an important element because the cookie has to stand up to the sweetness of the icing on top without overwhelming the taste buds. The icing on the top of the cookie is a key element in the Black and White, not just because it creates the color pairing that gives the cookie its name. The icing – not frosting – is a relatively thin layer of chocolate or vanilla that is poured smoothly onto the cake-like cookie. A thick glob of overly buttery or sugary frosting would upset the balance of flavors – not to mention that it just wouldn’t taste that great on a cookie.  

The best place to find a Black and White is, of course, New York City, but because crossing the country for a cookie might seem extreme to some, you can always try making them at home.

This recipe is on the lighter side, adapted from Cooking Light magazine, but it upholds the standards of a true Black and White. The cookie base is soft and tender, while the icing hardens into a smooth and satiny layer. The flavors meld beautifully with the first bite. Don’t forget that the way to eat a Black and White is to make sure you get some black and some white in each bite.

Black and White Cookies
adapted from Cooking Light
Cookies:
1 1/2 cups ap flour
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
2/3 cup unsweetened applesauce
1 cup sugar
1/4 cup butter, softened
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 tsp lemon juice
2 large egg whites

Preheat oven to 375F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Set applesauce in a fine sieve to drain for 5 minutes. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder and salt.
In a large bowl, cream together butter and sugar until smooth, 1-2 minutes. Beat in applesauce, vanilla and lemon juice. Add in egg whites and beat until well combined. Stir in flour mixture just until batter is smooth.
Drop batter by large, rounded tablespoonfuls onto the prepared baking sheet. Smooth slightly to form nice circles.
Bake for 10 minutes, until set but not browned.
Allow to cool for a few minutes on the baking sheet, then remove to a wire rack to cool completely.

Icing:
1 1/2 cups confectioners sugar, divided
3 tbsp milk or light cream, divided
1/4 teaspoon almond extract
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa

When cookies are cool, prepare the icing. Sift 3/4 cup confectioners sugar into each of two small bowls. Add 1 tbsp milk and the almond and vanilla extracts to one bowl and stir until smooth. Add cocoa and 2 tbsp milk to the other bowl and stir until smooth. Using a small knife and working over the bowls to catch drips, spread each icing over half of each cookie. Set cookies on a rack until icing is set and firm. Then enjoy!
Store in an airtight container if there are leftovers.
Makes 2 dozen cookies.

[Photo by Nicole Weston]