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Retro cooking: cheese sauce, step-by-step


whisking white sauce
Call it white sauce, cheese sauce, Bechamel: the routine is the same. Fat, flour, spices, liquid, and the melting cheese. It's the first thing you should learn when you start out in the kitchen.

And more importantly, it's the basis for most every fifties casserole or delicious pasta dish. It's the basis for macaroni and cheese, tuna noodle casserole, hamburger pie. It's easy... I'll walk you through it.

grated cheese
Step One: grate cheese, about four ounces. I like a sharp cheddar - here I used colby/jack because it's pretty grated. You could also use a classic Swiss cheese like Gruyere or Emmenthaler for a more European taste.

melted butter
Step Two: Melt butter in large, heavy-bottomed saucepan. You'll want a roughly 1:1 ratio of butter to flour. Here I used four tablespoons, or 1/4 cup.

white sauce - add the flour
Step Three: Add in flour. Here I used not quite 1/4 cup. At this point, you should add in salt (about one teaspoon), a bit of pepper or cayenne to taste, and a pinch of nutmeg (freshly grated is best).

white sauce - whisk flour and butter
Step Four: Whisk briskly, cooking over medium-high heat, until mixture begins to darken, two to five minutes.

white sauce whisk in milk
Step Five: Add in milk or broth (if you use chicken broth or turkey stock, it's essentially gravy), about 1/2 cup per one tablespoon of butter/flour. For this recipe I used about two cups of whole milk. Whisk over medium heat until smooth, thick and bubbly, about five minutes.

white sauce add in cheese
Step Six: Turn off heat and add in cheese, stirring until melted. Taste, adjust seasoning, and you're good to go, mixing into cooked pasta, pouring over steamed veggies, or creating whatever casserole goodness you've got in mind.

[Photos Sarah Gilbert]

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