I finally forced myself outside the two-mile radius to which I relegate my weekday dining, and
actually drove to Venice to try La Cabana, a Mexican restaurant I
have seen many times on my old commute to work. Lincoln Blvd. and Rose Ave. is quite a feat for me.
The restaurant is in an area that looks and feels sketchy, especially with the chain-link fenced empty lot next door to it. The building is nothing fancy on the outside, except for the large sign plastered across the front that proclaims that La Cabana has been awarded for "Best Margaritas." We'll see about that.
If La Cabana was going for an ancient-ruins-turned-cantina-bar, they got it. The inside is dark and cavernous with brick and stone archways. The host in a short bolero-like tuxedo jacket and bow tie seated us in a booth in the back by the bar. The ceiling by the bar was strung with Christmas lights shaped like margaritas and Sauza tequila bottles. That's classy.
I didn't love the somewhat oily and chewy chips, and the salsa tried to make up for its lack of flavor with an overdose of screaming hot chiles. No matter though, because we ordered margaritas, which are offered in different sizes, and they served to chill the flavorless burn.
The menu is very standard, except that I will note two things: 1) that La Cabana printed its menu "landscape," which meant it was very awkward trying to flip between the pages like it was a drawing pad, and 2) two entire pages are dedicated to quesadillas of all kinds. I liked that, but opted for something less ordinary.
Albondigas soup is something I always order - I have it inmy mind to make this at home one day, but only after I've tried it in at least two dozen different places. Unfortunately, La Cabana's will not be one that I will try to remember. The broth tasted like lightly salted water, and the meatballs were not any more flavorful.
The sope, a thick masa tortilla, was rock hard and as dense as clay. I left the sope itself on the plate, and scraped off the refried beans and chicken. It sounds like I didn't love La Cabana, but that's not entirely true. While the salsa, chips, sopa, and sope were dreadfully flavorless, the plato de barbacoa made up for all of it with tender, flavorful, highly spiced barbecued meat. The sauce was something I wasn't used to - very earthy.
Overall, the food at La Cabana wasn't bad. The margaritas were good, but I wouldn't agree with the sign out front that says they're "The Best." It's not that I wouldn't want to go back to La Cabana, but there are a few restaurants that are no more than a mile away from my house that are almost exactly the same.
La Cabana
738 Rose Ave (@ Lincoln Blvd)
Venice, CA 90291
(310)392-7973
www.lacabanavenice.com

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1-13-2006 @2:01PM Clive said... I would like to say a few words in defence of La Cabana. I found thier beef more flavorful and delicous than most any other mexican resturaunt. Allthough thier carne asada is pretty bland, any quesadilla with beef in it is top notch. I just wish that thier salsa did not suck so hard.
-Clive
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1-13-2006 @5:25PM Bruce Dearborn Walker said... I have found it unwise to expect good food at any restaurant that gives pride of place in it's advertising to its alcoholic beverages.
Night before last I ate at Margarita's, a would be upscale fake Mexican restaurant in Branford, Connecticut (not my idea). The food was everything I expected, or rather, feared. Mexican food in Ct is every bit as good as pizza in Mexico.
There are, however, a few bodegas and small family restaurats in CT owned and patronized by Mexican nationals, where the real deal can be had. With one exception, the decor and ambience is much worse than anyone who has never lived in Mexico can believe, and I am stared at when I enter as if I have a third eye. The ice breaks when I pull out my rusty Spanish, and I can have a decent homemade meal and a nice time while reliving some fond memories.
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1-14-2006 @10:51PM Sir Not Appearing in this Blog said... I haven't been to La Caba?n a while. When we were first married my wife and I ate there probably once or twice a month. I don't know why, but we haven't been there in years. I've never had any complaints about the food, but then I don't usually order appetisers.
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