Mario Batali and the $240 rack of veal: NYT Food and Wine in 60 Seconds
by Karina Longworth (Subscribe to Karina Longworth's posts)
Posted Dec 7th 2005 10:02PM
Filed under: Wine, East Coast, Restaurants, Newspapers, New Products
"$240 rack of veal, $220 shoulder of pork and a $200 whole king salmon
for four to eight people ... nearly 20 antipasti ... more than a dozen
pasta dishes, one with a
jalapeño pesto, another with a tripe ragù, another with partridge ...
more than 15 other entrees, including duck wrapped in porchetta; guinea
hen with pumpkin; squab with wild arugula ..." Frank Bruni expresses no small amount of awe over the expected offerings at Del Posto, the
latest New York mecca from Mario Batali and Joseph "Son of Lydia"
Bastianich.- A holiday job at Manhattan wine emporium Sherry-Lehman is more than just a part-time money maker – it's a real wine education. "Some people offer to go through the course and work the holiday rush
free," Frank J. Piral writes. "Some wine
enthusiasts...have offered to pay to be allowed to work there." If you're looking for a similar education but live somewhere West of New Jersey, Eric Asimov has a raft of books you might be interested in.
- The Minimalist, in defense of cast iron: "Cast iron is practically free compared with other high-quality pots and
pans ($20, say, for a skillet). In addition, it lasts nearly forever:
the huge skillet I bought around 1970 for $10 is still going strong."
- Should a cookbook necessarily be functional? Food photographer Andrew Scrivani contemplates the coffee table cookbook trend, and wonders if maybe food porn could stand to move beyond arousal.
- Jovia, according to Bruni, breaks the quintessential rule
of "if they can't do pasta right, they probably can't do anything at
all," with more-than-passable appetizers and entrees but deplorable
fettucine. "One night several friends and I watched a man at a nearby
table pour an
alarming volume of salt onto that fettuccine. We figured him for a
rube, until our own serving of fettuccine arrived and we too craved
salt."
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