Celebrate Louisiana: Saveur on Isleno

by Sarah Gilbert, Posted Sep 2nd 2005 @ 9:21PM

Searching for a way to honor some of the culinary heritage of Louisiana in the wake of Hurricane Katrina, my eye was immediately drawn to one of my large collection of Saveur magazines. It was issue #49 (March 2001), cover story: "Louisiana's Secret Cuisine." The colorfully-illustrated article told the tale of the Isleños people, "Louisiana's largest Spanish-based culture," two-centuries-old immigrants from the Canary Islands.

Oddly enough, although other recipes from that issue appear in Saveur's online archives, there are no Isleños recipes, and there is no Isleños article. Perhaps it disappeared into the Gulf of Mexico, like the belongings of thousands of Louisianans. Fortunately my issue is still intact, and my typing fingers are healthy. Ergo, Papas Arrugadas con Mojo Verde (yes, just because of the introductory line - I could use some of that "bottled mojo"):

"Wrinkled" Potatoes with Green Sauce
These potatoes, a typical Canary Island specialty, are a recent addition to Isleño cooking. Some Isleños use bottled mojo when they're short on time.

2 1/2 lbs. medium new potatoes
1/2 cup kosher salt
2-3 leaves cabbage
1/2 tsp cumin seeds
2 pinches salt
3-4 cloves garlic, crushed and peeled
2 jalapeños, stemmed, seeded, minced
Leaves from 1/2 bunch cilantro, minced
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 tsp white wine vinegar

Put potatoes into a large wide pan with a tight-fitting lid. Sprinkle salt over potatoes, and add enough water to reach half-way up potatoes. Drape cabbage leaves over potatoes, cover pan, and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium and cook until potatoes are fork tender (15-20 min). Drain all but 2 tbsp water.

Cover pan again and shake constantly over medium heat until all liquid has evaporated and potatoes look wrinkled. Discard cabbage leaves.

While potatoes are cooking, put cumin and salt into a mortar and crush to a coarse powder. Add garlic, jalapeños, and cilantro and crush to a fine paste. Add oil and vinegar while grinding in a circular motion. Toss with potatoes.

Filed Under: Magazines, The History of...
Tags: islenos, louisiana, midwest cities

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Reader comments (Page 1 of 1)

9-03-2005 @1:06AM Vaughn H said... It should be stated that the Isle?community is centered just beyond Chalmette in St Bernard Parish. This parish was severely damaged and at this point very little is known about how many of those who stayed have survived. Please keep them in your thoughts.
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9-08-2005 @12:17PM Sharon Wentz said... Thanks for thinking of the Islenos, with their distinctive culture and cuisine. From what I hear, there are basically no buildings left standing in the parish. That would be sad for those lovely people and their museum, which housed so many examples of their signature exquisite lace work. Perhaps some of you have seen their work proudly displayed by Islenos ladies in the folklore area at Jazz Fest. We can only hope and pray that the people heeded the warnings and fled to higher ground, to live and celebrate their culture another day.
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